Lummis' home and castle. Photo: M. Imlay.
Imagine trekking more than 3,000 miles to take a job. Yet that’s exactly what Charles Fletcher Lummis did in 1884 after accepting a reporting position at the Los Angeles Times.
In what has to be one of the greatest early promotional stunts in L.A. Media history, Lummis journeyed on foot from Cincinnati to the City of Angels, dispatching reports of his adventures along the way. The entire trip took 148 days, but every step was worth it: Lummis arrived in Los Angeles a sensation, prompting Times publisher Harrison Otis to immediately make him the paper’s first City Editor.
Between 1898 and 1910, Lummis built the distinctive El Alisal “castle” along the Arroyo Seco using granite river rock, concrete and old Santa Fe Railroad telephone poles. Located off the 110 Freeway at Avenue 43, it’s now the home of the Historical Society of Southern California.
Library of Congress image.
Quite a Character
To say Lummis was “eccentric” would be an understatement. An admirer of Native American culture, popular legend has it he used to run around El Alisal clad in nothing but a loin cloth, imitating California tribal ways and generally getting back to nature.
Thankfully for Southern California, Lummis also enjoyed playing the role of energetic civic booster, serving as Los Angeles City Librarian, founding the famous Southwest Museum, and hosting swanky parties for civic, artistic and theatrical luminaries to promote Southwestern culture. (Theodore Roosevelt and Will Rogers were just two of his illustrious guests.) As president of the historic Landmarks Club, he fought to preserve the California Missions, which at that time were mostly in ruins. Meanwhile, he championed Indian rights by establishing the Sequoya League.
Path through the garden.
Considering how Lummis got here, there’s ironically little walking to do at his former grounds. A pleasant little pocket park about half a block in size, El Alisal features a simple path meandering through a tranquil botanical garden boasting many California native specimens. A garden stroll and tour of the house/museum can be accomplished in 30 minutes, but the quaint beauty of the place will have you lingering much longer. Best of all, admission is free, making this hidden landmark an exceptional sightseeing choice for a lazy weekend afternoon.
Just please don’t try doing it in a loin cloth…
- El Alisal is located at 200 E. Avenue 43. Hours are Friday-Sunday, noon to 4 p.m. Phone: 323.460.5632.
- You can learn more about Lummis at CharlesLummis.com.
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What a charming little castle! I was disappointed to learn that it’s been turned into offices, though. I was imagining living inside this structure, trying to picture what the rooms would be like. And again, you tantalize us with descriptions of a neat little garden but don’t give us a peek!
Hilda, I updated the post with a garden teaser just for you. Not all the house contains offices. The main living quarters are still furnished with period items and parts of Lummis’ collections. — Mike